The word "handloom" gets used a lot, but not all handloom Banarasi sarees are woven the same way. The technique behind a saree changes its look, its price, and how long it takes to make. Here's a clear breakdown.
Kadhwa: The Most Painstaking Technique
In Kadhwa weaving, every single motif is woven separately, thread by thread, rather than carried across the fabric in one continuous run. The result is a saree that looks nearly identical from both the front and the back, because there are no loose threads floating behind the motifs. This is the most labour-intensive technique in Banarasi weaving — a single piece can take one of our master weavers, such as Ustad Anwar Ali ji, several months to complete.
How to spot it: Check the reverse side. If the back looks almost as clean as the front, it's likely Kadhwa.
Cutwork: Faster, Still Handloom
In Cutwork, the motifs are woven together across the fabric in a continuous thread, and once weaving is complete, the floating threads on the back are manually cut and trimmed. This technique is significantly faster than Kadhwa while still being genuinely handloom, which is why Cutwork sarees are more accessible without compromising on being handwoven.
How to spot it: The reverse side will show trimmed thread ends rather than a clean finish.
Jamdani: Delicate Figuring on a Fine Base
Jamdani-style weaving involves adding intricate, often geometric or floral motifs onto a fine, usually lighter base fabric, using a supplementary weft technique. It shares some technical DNA with Cutwork but is generally associated with more delicate, closely set patterns rather than dense brocade.
How to spot it: Look for fine, closely-spaced motifs on a comparatively lighter, more breathable fabric base.
Which Technique Should You Choose?
If you want maximum intricacy and don't mind investing in months of weaving time, Kadhwa is unmatched. If you want genuine handloom craftsmanship with a shorter turnaround and more accessible pricing, Cutwork is an excellent choice. If you're drawn to finer, lighter patterns, a Jamdani-style Banarasi may suit you best.
Not sure which is in front of you? Our team can show you the reverse side of any saree live on a video call so you can see exactly which technique you're looking at before deciding.
FAQ: Banarasi Weaving Techniques
Q1. What is the difference between Kadhwa and Cutwork weaving?
Kadhwa weaves each motif separately by hand, giving a clean finish on both sides, while Cutwork weaves motifs in a continuous thread and trims the floating threads afterward, making it faster to produce.
Q2. Which Banarasi weaving technique takes the longest?
Kadhwa is the most time-intensive technique, often taking a master weaver several months to complete a single saree.
Q3. How can I tell if a saree is Kadhwa or Cutwork?
Check the reverse side — Kadhwa looks nearly identical to the front, while Cutwork shows trimmed thread ends where floating threads were cut.
Q4. What makes Jamdani-style Banarasi weaving different?
Jamdani-style weaving typically features finer, more closely-spaced motifs on a lighter base fabric compared to the denser brocade of Kadhwa or Cutwork.
Q5. Is Cutwork less authentic than Kadhwa?
No, both are genuinely handloom techniques — Cutwork is simply faster to weave and more accessible in price, not less authentic.
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