"A customer once told me — 'I want a Banarasi saree, but I don't know which one.' That's the most common thing I hear. And honestly? It's not about knowing which one to buy. It's about knowing what each one is made for."
When you search for a Banarasi saree, you'll find names like Katan, Organza, Georgette, Tissue, Tanchoi, Kadwa. It can feel overwhelming — almost like learning a new language.
We've been part of Banarasi weaving since 1970. My husband Tanmay works directly with the weavers. We see these fabrics every single day — how they're made, what they feel like, which one a bride should choose, which one works for a summer wedding.
This guide is my attempt to put all of that knowledge in one place. Clear, honest, no jargon.
The main types of Banarasi sarees are: Katan Silk (including Katan on Katan, Soft Silk, and Mashru Silk), Organza (Kora), Georgette, Tissue, and weave styles like Tanchoi and Kadwa. Each differs in fabric weight, drape, occasion suitability, and price.
First, Let's Understand How Banarasi Sarees Are Categorised
There's an important distinction that most buyers don't know: Banarasi sarees are categorised in two different ways.
- By fabric / base material — the silk used to weave the saree (Katan, Organza, Georgette, Tissue)
- By weaving style / pattern technique — how the design is created on the loom (Kadwa, Tanchoi, Cutwork/Jangla)
These two can overlap. For example, you can have a Kadwa-weave Katan Silk saree — the fabric is Katan, the weaving style is Kadwa. Understanding this distinction will make everything else in this guide click into place.
When people ask us "which is the best Banarasi saree type?" — there is no single answer. The best type depends entirely on the occasion, the season, and the buyer's personal style. That's exactly what this guide will help you figure out.
Types of Banarasi Sarees by Fabric
Katan is the backbone of Banarasi weaving. It is made from twisted pure silk threads — both the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads are tightly twisted before weaving. This gives Katan its signature weight, body, and that unmistakable light-catching sheen.
When you hold a Katan saree up to light, you'll notice the fabric almost glows from within. That's the Zari and silk working together.
Katan Silk has three sub-types:
Katan on Katan
This is the most traditional and prestigious of all Banarasi sarees. Both the warp and weft threads are pure Katan silk — no compromise, no blending. The resulting fabric is heavy, structured, and deeply lustrous.
A Katan on Katan saree can take 15–30 days to weave depending on the intricacy of the design. This is the saree worn by brides, passed down through generations, and treated as a family heirloom.
Soft Silk (Katan base)
Soft Silk uses a slightly different thread twist — giving it a more fluid, comfortable drape compared to the stiff formality of Katan on Katan. It retains the silk richness but is lighter and easier to carry for extended wear. A popular choice for receptions and sangeets where a bride wants elegance without discomfort.
Mashru Silk
In Varanasi, Mashru is woven with pure silk on both sides, using a satin weaving technique. The result is a fabric with a distinctive lustrous sheen on the surface and an incredibly smooth hand feel — unlike any other Banarasi silk.
The satin weave means the silk threads float across a larger surface area before interlacing, creating that mirror-like finish. It drapes differently from Katan — softer, more fluid, with a subtle shine that catches light in a quiet, understated way. This is what makes Banarasi Mashru so rare and sought after by those who know what they're looking for.
Organza Banarasi sarees — also called Kora sarees — are woven from raw (unprocessed) silk threads. The threads are not degummed, which means the natural sericin protein of the silk remains intact. This gives Organza its signature stiffness, transparency, and crisp texture.
Where Katan drapes heavy and rich, Organza drapes light and airy. It catches light beautifully — the Zari motifs seem to float on a sheer canvas. This makes Organza ideal for destination weddings, summer events, or daytime functions where a full Katan saree might feel too heavy.
Organza sarees can feel slightly scratchy initially. This is completely normal — it's the raw silk sericin. After the first wash (following the correct care process), the fabric becomes significantly softer while retaining its structure.
Georgette Banarasi sarees are woven from silk threads with a very high crepe twist — the threads are twisted much more tightly than in Katan. This extra twist creates the characteristic pebbled, slightly rough texture and the fluid, flowing drape that Georgette is known for.
Pure silk Georgette Banarasi sarees combine the craft heritage of Varanasi with a contemporary drape that suits modern silhouettes. They're lighter than Katan but heavier than Organza — sitting neatly in the middle for year-round versatility.
Important: Many market vendors sell synthetic (polyester) georgette with Banarasi prints. Pure silk Georgette Banarasi is a handloom fabric — always verify the fabric composition. Look for sellers with Silk Mark certification or direct-from-loom credentials.
Tissue sarees are truly one of Banarasi weaving's most spectacular achievements. They are woven with a metallic Zari (gold or silver) thread in the weft — which means the base fabric itself is created from Zari, not just decorated with it. The result is a saree that looks literally made of gold or silver, shimmering entirely across its surface.
When you drape a Tissue saree, the light catches every movement. It's theatrical, grand, unmissable — and it's for occasions that deserve exactly that kind of presence.
Tissue sarees are typically lighter than Katan despite looking incredibly rich — because the Zari threads used are fine metallic threads rather than heavy brocade. This makes them more comfortable to wear than they appear.
Types of Banarasi Sarees by Weaving Style
These are not separate fabric types — they are techniques used to create the design on a saree. A single fabric like Katan Silk can be woven in Kadwa style, Tanchoi style, or Jangla style. Understanding these helps you understand the artistry (and price) behind a saree.
Flip the saree and look at the back. In a Kadwa saree, the back is almost as clean as the front. In a Cutwork saree, you'll see very few floating threads. In a Tanchoi, the back will show dense, closely packed floating threads. This back-side test helps verify weave authenticity.
Quick Comparison: Which Type Is Right for You?
Wedding (bride): Katan on Katan or Tissue. Reception/Sangeet: Soft Silk or Tissue. Summer/Destination wedding: Organza. Festivals & parties: Georgette or Soft Silk. Gifting: Soft Silk or Organza.
| Type | Fabric Weight | Drape Style | Best Occasion | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Katan on Katan | Heavy | Structured, regal | Wedding (Bride) | ₹14000 onwards |
| Soft Silk | Medium-Heavy | Flowing but rich | Reception, Sangeet | ₹10000 onwards |
| Mashru Silk | Medium | Smooth, satin-like | Special Occasions | ₹18500 onwards |
| Organza (Kora) | Light | Crisp, airy | Summer / Destination | ₹9000 onwards |
| Georgette | Light-Medium | Fluid, modern | Festivals, Parties | ₹9500 onwards |
| Tissue | Medium | Dramatic, metallic | Grand Occasions | ₹11000 onwards |
Zari in Banarasi Sarees: A Quick Word
No guide to Banarasi saree types is complete without mentioning Zari — the metallic thread woven into almost every Banarasi saree.
Zari comes in several forms:
- Real Zari (Asli Zari) — fine silver wire coated with real gold, wound around a silk core. This is the most precious and the heaviest Zari, used in heritage-grade Katan sarees.
- Half-fine Zari — silver wire without gold coating, used in many traditional weaves. Still genuine metal, still beautiful.
- Antique Zari — an oxidised, warm-toned Zari with a muted gold finish. Very popular in contemporary Banarasi designs.
- Tested Zari — a more affordable option used in everyday and mid-range Banarasi sarees. The gold appearance is achieved with chemical coating on a polyester core rather than real metal.
At Banaras Kothi, we clearly specify the Zari type used in each of our sarees. When buying anywhere, always ask about the Zari — it significantly impacts the price and longevity of the saree.
How to Choose the Right Type for You
After reading this guide, here's a simple decision framework:
Ask yourself: What is the occasion?
- Wedding (as the bride) → Katan on Katan or Tissue
- Wedding (as a guest or family member) → Soft Silk or Georgette
- Summer wedding or outdoor function → Organza
- Festival (Diwali, Navratri, Puja) → Soft Silk or Georgette
- Gifting (mother, mother-in-law, special gift) → Soft Silk — it's universally wearable
Ask yourself: How much do I want to spend?
Katan on Katan with real Zari will naturally be at the higher end. Georgette and Organza with tested Zari offer beautiful Banarasi weaving at a more accessible price. There is genuine quality at every price point — but you should know what you're getting.
Ask yourself: Who will wear it and how often?
An heirloom saree that will be worn once and preserved for decades → Katan on Katan. A saree that will be worn multiple times across different occasions → Soft Silk or Georgette, which drape more easily and care for more forgivingly.
From Our Weavers: A Heritage Since 1970
At Banaras Kothi, every saree you see comes directly from our family's loom — no middlemen, no distributors. My husband Tanmay works with the same weaver families whose grandfathers worked with his grandfather.
When you buy a handloom Banarasi saree from us, you're not buying a product off a shelf. You're holding the result of a process that took anywhere from 7 to 30 days — depending on the weave — and involved hands that have been doing this work for generations.
That's why knowing the type matters. Not just to make a good purchase decision — but to truly appreciate what you're holding.
Frequently Asked Questions
Find Your Perfect Banarasi
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